VERANO 2010!! Petzl Hi everyone, Finally
news on my blog after 3 months of absence. Where to start, heuu ... bin at the beginning. So Yan and I went towards the end of June just after spain coffee or personal colors this year it was really worth it on Sunday: waxtailor, damian marley, nas, steel pulse, Danakil, ... Wicked! Good end, one destination: Bielsa in the English Pyrenees. a site with a really major Wall flowing, almost all natural with lots of tracks in the 8th. Except as good as we had not cramiks checker direction and here we are at the foot of the sector so the sun 30 degrees in the shade! Bon ben some work! Seriously this site is really worth but rather mid September or in spring. Fortunately spain is full of major sites including one of them is Revilla, a small circus lost near the national park Ordesa y Monte Perdido in a major! We stayed there a short week because there were not many hard routes. I still have to make 2 beautiful beautiful 8a +: "a laugh in heaven" Devers in black with a crux at the top and "the hearts of men" a section of 10 movements in 8a, a rest and a section on crusts in an orange wall. Otherwise "the Jojos LYMPIC" 8a, "trazito or later" 7c + and "do not ripping off the Galloche" 7b + are to be done.
Although feed for enchainer
After that, the direction of Huesca in Aragon near a site secret or pseudo mathilde joined us. Indeed, this year I wanted to see something other than Rodellar (3x in a row is good!). Well I was served. This cliff is a true gem with an escalation Rodellar typed but with fewer people, a little less cannot and with the conglomerate. Major! In addition the place does not lack charm with its rustic bakery and cozy river, but better to have a box! We stayed three weeks and suddenly I had the opportunity to make a deal that is to say 2 + 8b: "Pokito a poco" in the first test, 50m with a crux at the top (Probably a little easier kind 8b / +) and "por bulerias" could with a 45m ... section at the top you got kind of tight colossal 40m during and after shaking 10 crusts and bin it is getting harder right away! , 3 8b: "Armageddon" one of the most beautiful, perfect for two colossal 3Om buggers and a section at the top, "el unsociable," and "Philippine Ballet" for the anecdote that path was listed in sketch 8a when the coup d 'I wanted to make a run at the sight I'm stuck 50x, finally it was just one last day to the last run of the day. There are also some 8a +, 8a 3, 4, 7c, lower it gets complicated. Clearly it must come with a level of 8b to enjoy the face. Yan made his first 8a + and math chained "Pokito a poco".
FACE
"el unsociable" 8b
"por bulerias" 8b +
"Armageddon" 8b
After that, management Me or the Basque country I think is the best place to spend the summer. This year is the turn of the cave where we squatted Baltzola 1 month with a bunch of friends who were also the English for a seat. The atmosphere was very present English both at the cave's the place we slept: an abandoned hermit or we were 15 Squat: ambience, atmosphere! I confess that the first contact with the cave was a bit damp ... in fact the first few days it takes a little getting used to the atmosphere that has admittedly the vast interior of this cave is a bit murky some days . But side roads not very nice, there are also vraix jewelry like the familiar "White Zombie" (a slope of 60 ° for 30m). After taking the continent in Aragon, I wanted to try "white" what I did and I admit that it went fairly quickly (within 5 trials). Personally, I think the intensity is a bit too low to 8c. As I did not want to lock myself in a particular style, I tried almost all avenues of the cave because the advantage is that Baltzola has something for all styles of slings on 4 channels micro crust has the 60 ° cannot big potatoes. With this in mind, try "INGO etorri" 8b well packed. track mythical cave that looks strong enough to our shingen (more block). I have put the 8 trials for the cross! Basque country, we laugh not! Seriously in any other site I have seen such a high proportion of climbers and unknown. Otherwise to remain in the same style, try "baltzolita" 8c a track divided into 2 sections: a 8b + 15 movement, a mega knee and finish with an 8a + well short residence. Although it suited me well enough I could not chain it (a drop) but it was not easy to find good conditions because the track was wet as often inside the cave.
"white zombie 8c below cons
" baltzolita "8c below
Otherwise, after ca Math tryin 'white' it yan torch quickly and gets a big project "pamintxa" 8b / +. For my part, I realized it pretty quickly (2essais) 8b and clear but very classy: a climbing large sweet knees with 1000 and 2 sections very block. At the end of the stay, I put myself as a project "apo" 8c little repeated. It is the same departure as "white" but it quickly to the right hand for a good climbing on resident has taken up to get a good knee (until the 8a +) and then a dirty section of 6 colossal movement on very small (something like a 7b + / c block) that mounts the listing to 8c. I can link after 10 runs and one by the cons, it is not given! End of stay after a long siege in the track, makes yan "pamintxa (math chain him too). I also realize 6 other channels between 8a and 8a +.
"White Zombie"
our friends in the cave
After working channels for 1 month, we wanted to do a little saw and shot direction Valdegovia for a week . The place is really beautiful: the face (on a wall cannot light holes) at the foot of a meadow with trees and cows could ask for more? The site is really worth for channels in 7 because those in the 8 (except a few) are far too cut to my taste. the week we climb 6 days and I realize an 8a saw "osito forever" and a flash mildred tia. I can link also has a dozen tracks for between 7b and 7c +. After that, I separate myself from that part to Ceus yan and I Cataluña direction where I find my 2 amigos: Manu and Gambus. Another place, another perspective: discover new sites with the locals. I was able to climb a bridge or a very personal quality of the rock is a bit rotten but the channels (overhanging and long) are classified. Next to St Lorenc del Munt near Barcelona: a major site overlooking the city of Barcelona (also a very mystical at night). We will also visit sites pseudo secret Sadernes Margalef and end up where I suggest you go for a walk but not for climbing (assault rotten). On the last part of the stay, I do not carry many hard routes as I never knew where we were going the next day and also because I did not climb nearly the last 2 weeks has been because of my .. .. wrist.
Anyway overall it was a very successful trip with lots of new knowledge and a lot of projects in mind.
